American cuisine, which until now seems to many exclusively burgers and french fries, is actually more diverse and interesting both in its past and in modern interpretations. In the main "melting pot" of nations, new taste combinations, which later gained popularity, and their own names could not help but appear. In the case of such a large country - as, indeed, with any other - it all depends on the region. Life around decided to find dishes of interesting and rare cuisines that can be tasted in Moscow, and today is exploring a mixture of Creole and Cajun cuisines from New Orleans, Louisiana.
This summer, Brown Sims and Lazy Dog Café hosted a tour of American Simon Glenn, a chef in Manhattan's Dean Street Restaurant. Simon is cooking a mixture of Creole and Cajun cuisine at his own pop-up cafe, Tchoup Shop, based in Brooklyn, while working at this restaurant. It was with this project that he came to Moscow - for a week in the Brown Fox the usual menu ceased to function: Simon, along with his sous-chef, prepared 18 dishes of Creole and Acadian cuisine in the cafe's kitchen.
After a successful tour, the cafe owners decided to leave four hot dishes from the Tchoup Shop menu in their permanent menu: gambo from duck and okra with rice and cracklings; a crispy chicken sandwich in soda bread, with homemade pepper marmalade, cilantro and Maldon salt; sandwich T.C.B.! with pork head terin, chow-chow cucumbers and confit pork belly; "Po 'Boya" sandwich with ribs, horseradish, watercress and caramelized onions.
(pronounced "chop shop") is a New York-based pop-up Creole and Cajun restaurant named after Tchoupitoulas Street in New Orleans.
Kajun and Creole cuisines
Kajun (or as it is also called, Acadian)kitchen Born in Louisiana, and leaves the French countryside gastronomic traditions, which are strongly influenced by West African cuisine and local products. The basis of the cuisine is seafood, rice, local vegetables and fruits and a large number of spices. Many dishes have three essential ingredients - onions, peppers and celery. Dishes are prepared quite simply and without the use of sophisticated techniques, often over an open fire.
Creole cuisine New Orleans is a mixture of Spanish, French, African and Native American culinary traditions. As in Kajun, in this kitchen there are no exact dishes-quotes from the kitchens of the ancestors, the reasons are the same: new local products and the exchange of traditions of representatives of different peoples who formed new families. To give a more accurate picture, here is one example - the Jambalaya dish, a Creole version of Spanish paella.
Combines Creole and Cajun cuisine with common products (fish, seafood, rice, beans, game and so on), the use of thick dark ru for thickening sauces, rich flavors and spicy burning aromas of spices. The difference is simple: Creole cuisine took more from the French city cuisine, that is, more complicated in technology than the Cajun, as the Acadians were villagers and cooked easier.
(mix everything together
and store in a ventilated container):
Black pepper(250 ml)White pepper(250 ml),
Kosher salt(125 ml),
Dry oregano(84 ml)Thyme(62 ml),
Ground celery seeds(31 ml),
Smoked paprika (pinch)
Without a couple of lines about the history of Louisiana, this cunning stratification cannot be understood. So, over the past five hundred years, Louisiana has repeatedly changed its owners. At different times and in different parts of this territory, the main were the Spaniards, the French and the British. Indians, Africans (both free and slaves), Spaniards, Portuguese, French lived here, and, of course, the peoples began to mix. Descendants born of immigrants from Portugal, Spain and France, with a significant influence of the genes of the indigenous population and Africans, began to be calledcreoles. They were the first here. And only from the middle of the XVIII century on this territory appearedkajuns - the descendants of the Acadians, the inhabitants of the French colony on the peninsula of Nova Scotia.
The Academians came to Louisiana, being expelled from their native places for not wanting to accept the new rules established in Nova Scotia after the British conquered the peninsula. The descendants of the Acadians and the local population were calledkajunami - the word comes from acadien, that is, "Acadians."
As a result, creoles and kajuns of French origin now dominate most of southern Louisiana. Both groups have their own language and culture, but their mixing is still ongoing.
About Simon Glenn
Second-generation chef Simon Glenn (creator of Tchoup Shop), jokingly calling himself a “veteran of New Orleans cuisine,” says about his food: “My kitchen is a big boiling pan of Kajun traditions with unexpected Vietnamese accents, based on classic Vietnamese French cuisine and a fragrance of memories of my childhood spent on a small farm in the Santa Cruz Mountains of California. " And so it turned out why: after graduating from the culinary school, Simon dreamed of moving to New York, but for six months he went to practice in New Orleans and stayed there for ten whole years.
After moving to New York, the cook worked at Spice Market and Metro Marché, and in 2012 he headed the kitchen of the Dean Street restaurant in Manhattan, where he still works. At the same time, in 2009, Glenn launched the pop-up restaurant Tchoup Shop (where he cooks Kajun cuisine in his own interpretation) in the D.b.a Williamsburg bar, and last year opened its branch in the Heavy Woods pub. We asked Simon Glenn to talk about several dishes from the Tchoup Shop menu in order to understand what is traditionally Kajun and Creole, and what is the author’s interpretation of the cook.
Sandwich T.C.B.! with pork head terin (tete de cochon), chow-chow cucumbers and pork belly confit
This dish is the result of cooperation with my previous sous-chef. After it was invented, we fought for a long time about the name. Jacques received the formula T.C.B.!. When we were younger, my five friends and I had the same tattoo - “TCB!”, So this sandwich is dedicated to him and Elvis Presley, whose motto, and the personal slogan was “Taking care of business” (“Thinking about business”). "). Also T.C.B.! - this is tete de cochon, cucumber chow chow, confit pork belly.
Simon New Orleans BBQ Shrimp
The whole taste of this dish is in shrimp heads. We serve them with crispy bread and 16 napkins: you’re all messed up.
Crispy Chicken Sandwich
in soda bread, with homemade pepper marmalade, cilantro
and maldon salt
This is an adaptation of the dishes from my American menu, in the original go to the sandwich cooked on an open grill on the street chicken wings. I wanted the dish to be made in the kitchen, deep-fried. But the wings have been cooked this way for too long, so now there is chicken fillet. We put the chicken and other components in traditional soda bread - an analogue of the English skon. Now we have the best-selling dish. It’s important that the chicken is very crispy: no one likes a wet chicken.
Large hash papis of crab and okra
Hash papis is a traditional southern food. I made a New Orleans version of this dish, adding okra and crab - the two ingredients most commonly used and available in Louisiana cuisine.
Creole meatballs "Budan Bolls" from smoked beef brisket and duck liver with Creole mustard and pickled cucumbers
This dish was invented to compete in the Brisket King of NYC. I understood that I can’t compete with pastors and barbecue, so I decided to make something from another section of sharkuteri. Cajun Budan is similar to French Budan in name only. Traditional kajun budan is a product of minced pork and pork liver, pepper, onion and rice, which acts as a binding component. I am preparing this dish from duck and beef liver - the duck liver aroma goes well with the rich fatty taste of beef brisket. So there are only echoes of French influence here, it turns out such a fun derivation from the famous style of Kajun Budans. One way or another, this dish won the Best non Brisket Brisket title at the 2013 Brisket King of NYC.
Gambo from duck and okra with rice and cracklings
Gajbo in kajun style differs from any other gambo in that it uses a very dark ru (in French roux - flour, sautéed in fat, is used as a thickener in sauces). I use duck fat instead of vegetable oil to make ru, and this enriches the dish. Try eating this cajun-style dish: make a potato salad with mayonnaise and green onions and dip a spoon with gumbo salad - it's very tasty.
Photographer: Mark Boyarsky